There is a saying that when life hands you lemons make a gin
and tonic! So when injury and work
dictated a shorter adventure we made the most of the journey rather than the
destination.
From humble solo microadventures a couple of years ago trips
are now developing with other like minded individuals. I am lucky enough to have access to a house
in the UK Lake District and have agreed to start getting there for a couple of long
weekends a year with good friends Steve and Carl. As April approached I started to look at an
itinerary. I thought it was important to
make the most of our relatively short time together with as much ground
travelled as possible. A good long walk
up something or to a feature was going to be the mark of success.
As our agreed weekend arrived however plans had to be
changed and, what for me was a bit of an epiphany, took place. Steve was struggling to get time off from
work so had to travel separately with only Saturday to spend out and
about. On top of that he was struggling
with a knee injury that precluded long distance walking or travelling on
difficult terrain. I also had to meet
someone on the Saturday morning to discuss some work on the house where we were
staying. I also forgot my
walking boots ! This meant whatever I walked had to be suitable for trail
shoes. Overall things were looking like
a bit of a washout but we were all loathe to cancel a rare trip away.
As luck would have it
I found a newspaper article (The Times) with a relatively straightforward walk of less than
five miles to Haystacks from the top of Honister pass. Whilst there would be some height to gain
much of it would already be below us and the route followed mining paths for
much of the way with no exposed walking which, if I’m honest, always leaves me
feeling very uncomfortable.
So, we arrived at Honister Pass just
before lunch with the whole afternoon to travel a relatively short distance. This changed the whole approach to the
day. Far from wanting to crack on to
achieve great things I adopted the mindset of enjoying the journey rather than focusing on the destination. Many
people will be well ahead of me in developing this attitude but as someone who
has always focused on the end having to be better than the beginning and
achieved only after hard work this was a liberating mindset.
Parking behind the Youth Hostel (for free thanks to NT
membership!) we set off at a leisurely amble pretty much due West along the
dismantled tramway which served the surrounding, mainly disused slate quarries. We were blessed with fine, clear weather with
only the slightest of breezes. Knowing
how quickly the weather can change in the hills we stopped after less than half
an hour to enjoy lunch. As you tuck in
to a pork pie on a hillside far from work and the stresses of daily life you
quickly start to appreciate how important trips away, even short ones, are to
well being.
Lunch finished and with the weather improving we carried on
with the heights of Grey Knotts to our left.
Dropping down briefly to cross the stream near Little Round How we
carried on to Blackbeck Tarn. Again we
took our time looking North between the Crags to the valley of Buttermere well
below us. I began to appreciate how
fresh I felt not having trekked up from the valley floor. I know it would have been satisfying but
there is something equally satisfying about enjoying a pretty view feeling
fresh.
It was as we headed North West for the final kilometer to
the top of Haystacks that the highlight of the day took place. The breeze had dropped and the sun was
getting equal billing with the light cloud.
We turned a corner to Innominate Tarn which was flat calm and totally quiet. In absolute silence we were treated to the reflection
of the sky and the distant heights of Pillar in the totally flat waters of the tarn.
I know Wainwright was moved by the beauty of Haystacks and had his ashes
spread there. Seeing the tarn as it was
that day I can understand why. The calm,
tranquil majesty matched any cathedral I have visited. We all tried to capture the moment and having
done so just stopped and enjoyed the moment speaking only in whispers to avoid
breaking the spell. How glad I was that
circumstances had dictated a short, no pressure walk.
We had all the time we wanted to enjoy the
experience without the need to make for the next way point. That feeling of calm and tranquillity followed
us to the top of Haystacks which is really a series of tops with stunning views
of the surrounding peaks and valleys.
Having spent as long as we wanted admiring the view we had a
leisurely descent via the Southern edge of Blackbeck tarn and the Northern
contours of Grey Knotts back to the disused mining path and the car park. The slower pace allowed us to watch birds of
prey circling and Steves gimlet eye to pick up the remains of their catches
including tiny bones and teeth in droppings that we would have just marched
past if we’d had a schedule to keep.
As if on cue the weather began to turn as we reached the car
in the late afternoon. Emphasising even
more the treat we had just been given of a fine afternoons leisurely walk with
time to really savour the beauty of the fells.
Steve had to leave for work the following morning. Moved by our experience Carl and I agreed on a
short walk to Rannerdale Knotts on the South of Buttermere. Reaching a high point we looked towards
Haystacks and our discussion turned to plans for future visits. We both agreed they would be more about
shorter, quality exploration of this stunning landscape than trying to pack too
much in and miss the majesty. With that
came the realisation, perhaps late, that it is all about the journey.
